Sunday, August 5, 2007

XI'AN, CHINA

Xi'an - Home of the Terracotta Warriors
Our flight arrived late at night and we caught the bus from the airport into the city and found ourselves a hotel to stay for the next few days. After a good sleep in we went and hired bikes on the city wall that circles what was the site of Xi'an when it was the capital of China some centuries ago. We rode right around the city and took some amazing shots of the most intact city wall and historical relic in China.



After the ride we walked around some of the parks that were at the foot of the walls. Lots of people were playing mah-jong and cards. There was also something like Chinese karaoke going on in the park. There was an orchestra or band of people playing Chinese instruments and people would take turns from the crowd singing what must have been well known Chinese folk tunes (at a guess) They recieved rapturous applause from the crowd although we didn't really like the singing which was quite high pitched and nasaly.
We went to buy something to eat and drink from a stall and next thing you know we were literally surrounded by onlookers staring at us doing so. It was really strange. So we moved off to the side to watch what was going on and more people just stopped and stared at us. One young boy even stopped on his bike and simply gawked. Even a baby was staring at us! We watched an old lady do some calligraphy in water on the pavement. It was beautiful to watch, Manderin is such a gorgeous language in the written form.

That night we went to the centre of town near the Bell Tower and found our way to the Muslim Market and quarter. We had the most amazing Islamic dinner with kebabs and bread all done on the bbq and gorgeous vegetables.
The next morning we were up bright and early and got picked up by the tour bus that was going to take us to see the Terracotta Warriors. Little did we know but our bus was also going to be stopping at 6 other places during the day but we decided not to go to them and either sat in the bus reading or had something to drink instead while waiting for the others to return. We stopped at a factory where the process of making the warriors was explained to us and we saw how they copied them there. Of course there was an opportunity to buy them in all sizes (right up to full scale) and for around $1500 NZ you too could own your own Terracotta Warrior (which included shipping).

The Warriors were found in March 1974 by a local farmer who was digging a well and some pieces of pottery came up in his bucket. He took them to be examined at the University and so began the greatest archaelogical discovery in the 20th Century. The 8000 or so Warriors are part of a 57 sqkm tomb that was built for China's first emperor Qin Shi Huangdi of the Qing Dynasty. It is only a small fraction of what archaelogists and historians believe is still buried in that area. The tomb is believed to have taken some 720,000 people 38 years to build. It was a massive complex surrounded by tourist shops and after lunch we went in with a couple we met (Ulrika from Sweden and Uffe from Denmark) to see building 1. It was an incredible feeling when you saw them for the first time. Rank upon rank of soldier still in the pits that had been constructed to hold them all those years ago. The craftsmanship was truly remarkable. From here we went onto the smaller building number 3 and then to number 2. Work had been put on hold at the site as the archaelogists were trying to figure out how to stop the paint that was on the warriors, when they were excavated from peeling off after a year or so. They decided until a successful process was found that they would cease all further digging. In building 2 they had the only completely intact figure found thus far - which was a crouching archer. He along with other good specimens of the various soldiers etc were in specially constructed glass cases and trying to get a look at them was virtually impossible with all the people crowding around. The final buidling housed two scale bronze chariots that were incredibly detailed. There were also examples of weapons that had been found with the warriors which due to being covered with a chrome type substance done by a process still used today, were still as sharp as when they were made and buried with the emperor in 210-209 BC.

That night we went to dinner with our new found friends in another Islamic restaurant in the Muslim quarter and it was just as delicious. We swapped emails and bid Uffe and Ulrika farewell until we hoped to meet again.

Our final day was spent exploring the Drum and Bell towers in central Xi'an.
We timed it perfectly so that we got watch some brilliant drum and bell performances in each one. The views over the city was amazing and it was a great way to cap off three brilliant days in an incredible place. That evening we jumped on another train and set out for the nations capital Beijing.


Lots of love

Liv and Tama xx

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